Midnight marauders, fishes and me

Accoring to City of Cape Town officials (reported by Cape Argus on 14 June), the first match in Cape Town at the Green Point Stadium last Friday (FRA-MEX 0:0) was a sucess, although some areas need to be fine-tuned. Due to the great wheather conditions many people walked from Cape Town Main Station to the stadium (Fan Walk). The stadium shuttle, however, brought spectators to the stadium with high frequency. About 20.000 spectators came to the city via rail and about 11.000 visistos made use of the newly established MyCITI bus system (R 8 for a round trip, = 1 EUR, quite expensive actually). The Metrorail offers special schedules on match days and brings Capetonians to the city and back to the suburbs until midnight (although the frequency of train services is rather low).  I took a minibus taxi to town in the early afternoon (R 5 one tour) and back to Observatory at round 8pm (R 7) as this was the fastest and most flexible transport option. I have never seen so many people waiting at the Cape Town taxi rank before, Bafana days mean without a doubt big business for taxi drivers. Concerning safety issues, I haven’t experienced any unsecure situation. The city centre was a vibrant place and it was just relaxing to walk around and celebrate with the spectators. The executive director of safety and security of the City of Cape Town, Richard Bosman, reported no serious injuries (except of one spectator who fell through the roof of the bus terminus near the Grand Parade following Bafana, Bafana’s first goal), and two arrests for driving under the influence (Source: Cape Argus 14 June).

Later in the evening, I found myself at a friend’s place in Obz where a birthday party framed the second match France-Uruguy (0:0). I guess there is no need to comment this match. Still in an agitated mood, my french friend Margo and me were expecting to see another intresting match. Apparently, we were the only ones who actually followed the game. For many football is still not as recognised as Rugby is, and I got the impression that some don’t really understand that game. But it didn’t damped down the support for Bafana, Bafana…I can only assume that the broad support for the South African national team is rather rooted in the fact that it is South Africa’s (and Africa’s) turn to demonstrate its potentials, its humaity and its diversity, as in a general interesst in football. However, football is in the heart of many people.

The following match days made clear that there also  is a general broad support  for other African teams, such as Ghana (1:0 against Serbia), Nigeria (0:1 against Argentina), Ivory Coast (0:0 against Portugal) and Cameroon (0:1 against Japan). Not so much supported, however, is Algeria. The win of Ghana made many people truly proud and it is going to be an intersting match on 23 June when Ghana meets Germany (4:0 against Australia, but we all know this result does not mean anything;-) in Jo’burg. But also other countrie’s teams gained much support by South Africans, such as England, Italy, Brazil or Germany (as far as I have obeserved).

The Germany match was definately another highlight in the last days. The wheather conditions were rather suboptimal, it rained a lot that day and the night before, really uncomfortable I’d say. Nonetheless, it stopped raining once Margo and I arrived at the Fan Fest, where I expected to meet other Germans and see a great concert of Cape Town’s most popular dj duo Goldfish. Only about 200 hundred spectators came to see the match and defied the cold. Another 2.000 Germans (and Germany supporters) prefered to watch the game at the Paulaner Bierzelt at V&A Waterfront…

On Sunday, my intern colleague Christophe was checking the FIFA ticketing website for available stadium tickets as every day. He was very excited when he finally called me in order to make me aware of available tickets for the match Italy – Paraguy (1:0) at Green Point Stadium next day. Of course, I could not miss out that chance, and I was glad that I  had proper waterproof clothing with me as it did not stop raining cats and dogs on Monday, and even worse it was snowing in the higher regions of Table Mountain.

Funny enough, you don’t get wet in the 3rd category;-) But in fact, the hard rain challenged the host city  Cape Town in some ways. Apart from the fact that on those days many shack areas struggle with floodings, it was a worse case scenario for the event organisation in terms of any expected transport and security issues.  To be upfront with it, everything worked out well. Christophe and I took the stadium shuttle (most of the spectators did so), and we reached the Green Point Stadium (max. 66.000 seats) just shortly later. People were running around in the rain searching for the right entrance to their seats and ignoring the various FIFA sponsor offers on site. Thank to the great stadium design we did have a great view from our seats to the pitch though. It was a great experience and an interesting match loudly enjoyed by 62.500 spectators. Later on, we decided to walk back to the city centre (about 20 min.) although it was still heavily raining. It was expectable that a massive  crowd was heading to the  shuttles. The train from Cape Town Main Station to Obz was packed and I reached my bed short before midnight.

To sum it up, the last days can be seen as a test phase not only for the host cities but also for my research in particular. However, it is time to get ready for another Bafana, Bafana night and to decide on where to go see the match. In this spirit: Ke Nako…

Bafana, Bafana in seventh heaven

…and South Africa with them. It seems to be a destiny that Bafana, Bafana suceeded last Friday and has honoured their fans who constantly supported the team with their strong belief and prayers.  That day, thousands of people came to town to be with the crowd. The Fan Fest was packed at noon and another crowd was celebrating behind the barriers, in trees, on top of car parks, and whereever you could snatch a place with view to the screens. According to the Sunday Argus, about 350.000 people had poured into the City Bowl, and the  Fan Jols (non-FIFA branded public viewing areas) in Khayelitsha (Oliver Tambo Sport Centre, capacity of 5.000), Athlone (Vygieskraal Stadium, capacity of 2.500), Mitchells Plain (Swartklip Sport Complex, capacity of 36.000) and Belville (Velodrome, capacity of 6.000) were full by 4pm. That day, everyone was Bafana, Bafana.

It was a healing moment when South Africa scored against Mexico (1:1). A mixure of relaxation, proud and hope filled the athmosphere. After the most unspectacular match between France and Uruguay (0:0)  fans see Bafana, Bafana more then ever in the Round of Sixteen;-). Either way, that match has spread the sense of ubuntu [=togetherness, solidarity, humaneness], at least until Wednesday…

The simple life

It was 6:30 am when the first vuvu  penetrated my dreams. South Africa was waiting for 6 years and now the World Cup becomes real. The carnival parade last night, where Cape Town welcomed the world, made clear with how much effort everyone was preparing him-/herself for that moment. The Fan Fest at the Grand Parade was packed, the atmosphere was vibrant and pretty much enjoyable .

And today,  short before the kick-off it is a beautiful day again.  A clear blue sky and a warm breeze make this day just perfect. The minibus driver was loundly singing and dancing whilst he was shouting for passengers along the Main Rd to town.

At 10 am, diski-dance lesson at my office. My intern colleagues organised a music recorder and taught the ERMD crew how to do the “official” 2010 World Cup South African diski-dance. Today, there is no excuse for not being somewhere in the crowd to see South Africa playing against Mexico. The chance to win for Bafana, Bafana is not too bad. Nonetheless, no one really believes that South Africa could win the final.  But everyone does hope that South Africa will reach the round of sixteen….

Today is the day, for sure. However, for some people it is just another day of life where you have to sort out more important things then watching a football match. While I was practising my diski-dance skills, my friend R. left the city to be with her family in Limpopo and overcome the loss of her recently died cousin. So, I pray for her that she will be able to give support and advice. And over and above,  also Nelson Mandela will stay away from the opening ceremony as his 14-years-old grand child died by a tragic car accident last night right after the World Cup celebrations in Johannisburg…

It’s a day of hopes and doubts in many ways.

Calm before the storm

It’s holy Friday, Bafana-day, when South Africans and South Africa lovers are wearing the Bafana-colours in order to demonstrate their excitement about the upcoming FIFA World Cup. Just 7 days before kick-off the city unexpectedly appears quite unremarkeble. Some might complain that there aren’t enough flags and banners visible on major building and along the highways.  You could easily ignore that the Mother City is hosting one of the biggest international sporting event in just a few days.

But behind the facades of naked buldings you can clearly feel that it’s bubbeling like a vulcano. Supermarkets have arranged huge islands of football equipement, cars have been dressed up and all over the city you hear the sound of the vuvuzela; construction workers are hecticly fixing the last bricks.

In the background, teams of all departsments are busy with preparing the big bang, nervousness is increasing. Today the Green Goal 2010 team kicked-off it’s Fuel Efficiency Campaign, tommorrow there will be an Environmental Soccer Match and many communities have started their clean-up campaign. Since Saturday a Green Goal Expo is in construction within the official FIFA Fan Fest. The entire stand will be made of plastic milk boxes and other recycled materials. Referring to the conceptional design it’s going to be a very fancy and visible bulding where the Green Goal team will showcase its programme to the visistors.

Three days later, people can’t hide their excitement anymore: At noon a spontaneous flash mop of 150-200 people literally reclaimed the Long Street (downtown Cape Towm); People danced and constantly blowed their vuvu’s and feeded the international journalists with  great pictures; The police couldn’t really decide on whether they should stop the mop or the traffic whilst passing cars supported the conquerors by waving flaggs and honking their horns. The Capetonians are definately ready to welcome the world.

30 seconds later I beamed myself to the newly constructed Biodiversity Showcase Garden, located next to the Green Point Stadium, and enjoyed the amazing and quiet scenery between Lions Head, Signal Hill and the ocean in the back. I have to admid that all this vuvuzela noise is quite intense…But what would the 2010 FIFA World Cup be without  this unique sound. However, I need to get ear plugs, I guess…

A Phrase from a Nightingale

Can you expect from a bird, which was born and raised in a cage, that it knows how to fly?

Zwischen den Welten.

Vor den Küsten des Persischen Golfes reflektieren  die Lichter von hunderten Yachten und Kreuzfahrtschiffen in der dunklen Nacht. Es sind noch immer 33° C Grad und der Asphalt wird sich bald schon bis auf 50° C erwärmen. Die Wüste wird von der Finsternis verschluckt und am Horizont erstrahlt die junge und rasant wachsende Wüstenstadt in Millionen von symmetrisch angeordneten Lichtern. Hier wurde nichts dem Zufall überlassen und das Leben muss hier künstliche sehr aufwendig am Leben gehalten werden.

Der Flughafen schläft nie. Menschen aller Kontinente streifen durch die Boutiquen. Vor allem Gold, Parfüm und Lindt Schokolade wecken das Interesse der Kaufwilligen. Auf und unter den Sitzen und Liegen versuchen Unternehmer, Urlauber und Arbeitsmigranten Ruhe in dieser Zwischenwelt zu finden. „Dubai connects the World“ leuchtet in roten Lettern an jedem Gate. Etwas künstlich wirkt der Versuch die Bedürfnisse und Geschmäcker all dieser Menschen in den Shopping Malls zu treffen. Nach einem langen Streifzug durch die Dubaische Mittenacht decke ich mich auf einer bequemen Liege zu und finde etwas Schlaf.

Die klare Stimme des singenden Muhedzin dringt in meine Träume. Ich kann ihn sehen, wie er der Sonne entgegen die Stimme zum Gebet erhebt. Es dämmert in der Wüstenstadt und der Gesang weckt mich zart um 5 Uhr morgens. Nur 3 Stunden später breche ich auf in den Südafrikanischen Winter. Unsicher und neugierig gespannt, was mich erwartet, verlasse ich diesen seltsamen Zwischenort. Zuhause ist schon jetzt sehr weit weg. Ich habe mir eine Merian-Ausgabe über Deutschland gekauft. Bilder aus der Heimat. Bilder von Orten an vielen ich selbst noch niemals war…